Tuesday, 21 May 2019

Wolf & Angel Stat Card Art from Traders Galaxy

Wolf and Angel stat card art.

Wolf & Angel

Wolf & Angel picture 1

Wolf & Angel picture 2

Traders Galaxy

Starter Box from Traders Galaxy

Starter Box from Traders Galaxy

Just received mockup examples of my starter box and tape measure.

Really pleased with the print quality of the mock up.

So awesome.

So things to note from the following pics.

Everything is mock up.

Rulebook is an old photocopy of Aidan Spittles

Tape measure will be black and labeled bot war, not yellow

Miniatures will obviously be the sets designed exclusively for the starter.

The cards will be proper printed cards for the starter.

The idea is that you all get as premium experience as I can give you when getting a Bot War starter.

Metal easy assemble minis.
Premium box and printed cards and rules
Bot war branded tape measure (no measuring sticks here;) )

Starter Box

Starter Box picture 1

Starter Box picture 2

Starter Box picture 3

The Starter is not due until around later this year, it WILL be produced in limited numbers initially.

Expect to see pre orders for it in the next couple of months.

Traders Galaxy

A New Incoming Transmission from TTCombat

A New Incoming Transmission from TTCombat

A New Incoming Transmission!

What’s all this now?

An easy one today!


Monday, 20 May 2019

Kickstarter on the 22nd of May from Dancing Yak Miniatures

Kickstarter on the 22nd of May from Dancing Yak Miniatures

Kickstarter on the 22nd of May

Kickstarter on the 22nd of May

Dancing Yak Miniatures

Stone Giants from Dark Fields Factory

The One Stone Giants work in progress

Stone Giants

Stone Giants picture 1

Stone Giants picture 2

Stone Giants picture 3

Dark Fields Factory

New 10mm Sci-Fi Buildings from Thunderhead Studios

New 10mm Sci-Fi Buildings from Thunderhead Studios suitable for  Adeptus Titanicus, CAVs, Dropzone Commander, Horizon Wars, Planetfall.

New 10mm Sci-Fi Buildings

New 10mm Sci-Fi Buildings

Thunderhead Studios

Aegis minibot work in progress from Traders Galaxy

Aegis minibot work in progress



Aegis’ primary function is security and he is often a consultant for Democracy power installations in danger of Deceiver or Infester attack.

Traders Galaxy

Topstar work in progress from Traders Galaxy

Topstar work in progress.

Topstar is somewhat a celebrity amongst Valiants. Before the revolt, Topstar was considered the best chaser of all time in the sport all Valiants support. However he grew bored of a pampered life at the top and secretly volunteered/begged to be a part of Duke’s pursuing Valiants. At first he was adored by his fellow Valiants, then he was shunned as they realised how soft life at the top had made him.



However now after 3 years of battle Topspin has become a hardened vet. Although he is small,he is agile, and wields his duel pistols as effectively as he did when he was at the top of his game in the arena.

Traders Galaxy

Saturday, 18 May 2019

Koppelzaun from Faller

Coupling fence and coupling gates, consisting of posts that are connected by three crossbars.


Koppelzaun picture 1

Koppelzaun picture 2

This kit contains: 20 items in 1 color.

For Diy, Use Faller Expert Plastic Glue.


Bedford Runway Control Vehicle from P.G. Models

Ready for Mould Making

All of the parts ready to be moulded

Just a short post to say that the Bedford Runway Control Vehicle is now ready to be moulded.  First off will be a mould with the two wheels, to get two of each, and then a mould with all of the bits that you can see here.

All joined together with no glue

Here’s everything joined together with no glue in sight.  It doesn’t always work like this, but if it can go together okay without any glue it’s a good indication that it should go together okay as the finished kit.

Three-quarter view of it

This view gives a good impression of the modified cab, with mudguards horizontal at the rear, built up using Milliput two part epoxy resin, and a smaller front bumper, now with the headlights set into the cab.  Once the moulds are done, the next things to do are the instructions.  I make no claims to being a graphics artist, so drawing the assembly sequence is always a bit of a chore for me, although luckily it’s the thought of it that’s worse than actually doing it.

P.G. Models

Saracen Nearly Done from P.G. Models

Side view of the Saracen APC

For the last few months I’ve been working on the Saracen Mk.2 Armoured Personnel Carrier as well as building up my stock for The International N Gauge Show in Leamington Spa the weekend after this on 12th & 13th September.

Same model, but in bare metal

It’s taken quite a time to get this model done as there are a multitude of angles on the vehicle.  It fact it was probably not far off a modern “stealth” vehicle.  What this means is that you have to be very careful in getting the angles right.  Just one or two thousandths of an inch out and it will completely spoil the model.

3/4 rear view

This isn’t a brilliant photo, but it shows the rear plate, which was one big problem.  You can just about see that there are what look like exhaust pipes running up the hull rear on either side.  These are in fact crew air extraction rather than engine exhaust pipes.  They are too small to be made as separate parts, so I attached them to the rear plate.  My first mould came out with the upper hull fouling on these air exhausts, which meant that it would not sit up against the rear plate.  So, parts adjusted and second mould made.

Two different wheel sizes

In the photo above, the casting from the second mould is on the right.  I had used the wheels from the Stalwart (but with new suspension arms) as being as close as I could get, but they weren’t quite right.  I had the model with me at the Avon IPMS model show in early August and showed it to my friend Tim Neate, who has done some articles on the Saracen in the MAFVA magazine Tankette. He liked the look of the model, but felt that the wheels were too big.  He thought that the wheels from the Bedford MK/MJ may be nearer the right size.  I had a week off the Saracen to get some more casting/re-stocking done and had another look at it the following week.  I found the original wheel that I had used for the Bedford MK/MJ, which was slightly smaller, but square in profile.  So I went over the wheel with a small scalpel blade and opened up each of the tread marks, and then rounded off the squareness.  This wheel is just 20 thou less in diameter/ 1o thou in radius, but is now far nearer the right size.  The end result is the casting to the left from mould No.3.  Thanks again to Tim for his helpful advice.  It was/is much appreciated.

I haven’t got the time to take my usual black & white and colour photos for my P G Models website, so I won’t release this model on the website until after The N Gauge Show.  However, I am building up a stock of them and will have them for sale at the show.  I’ve now got to draw up a side view of the vehicle and an exploded diagram of the parts to show what goes where, and then to put them into a Word document with arrows and text.  There’s just over a week to go before the show, so it should be just about enough time to do it.

P.G. Models

Atlantican Bots can be split into 3 categories from Traders Galaxy

Atlantican Bots can be split into 3 categories from Traders Galaxy

Atlantican Bots can be split into 3 categories. The Air Warriors dubbed the “Rays” essentially make up King Gills air support. Each Bot leads a squadron of Manta Gunships of various classes.

The Mud Warriors are a less prestigious force. Led by Omen, these warriors are more the brute force of King Gills Bot army and support the tank and infantry legions in the kingdom.

The Atlantican Ghost Guard is an elite group of merman powered battlesuits. Or Combat Reconnaissance Armoured Battlesuits (CRAB). This group often acts as King Gills personal bodyguard.

Traders Galaxy

King Gills from Traders Galaxy

Bow down petty humans to the power and might of ATLANTICA.

King Gills - Combat Reconnaissance Armed Battlebot or C.R.A.B for short

King Gills

King Gills

Traders Galaxy

Atlantican Air Warriors from Traders Galaxy

Work in progress. Atlantican Air Warriors!

Made by King Gills to counter the threat from Deceiver Air Warriors in the same way that Omen, Octo and the mud warriors were created to counter the Valiants.

Atlantican Air Warriors


Atlantican Air Warriors picture 1

Atlantican Air Warriors picture 2

Atlantican Air Warriors picture 3

Atlantican Air Warriors picture 4

Traders Galaxy

11x17 Poster Free from Dancing Yak Miniatures

A little spoiler for all of you. all of the first 200 orders will get a 11 x 17 poster free of charge.

11 x 17 poster free of charge

11 x 17 poster free of charge

One of stretch goals will be making poster bigger for everyone.

Hope you like it as much as we do! (watermark won't be there)

Dancing Yak Miniatures

MQ-9 REAPERs from Miniwing

I have finished two of three MQ-9 REAPERs. Both are already available for selling.


The first one, Kit No.328 is boxed, including two kits and four decal versions.
kit No.328 picture 1

kit No.328 picture 2

kit No.328 picture 3

The second one, Kit No.329 is a bagged including one kit with one decal version (California ANG).

Kit No.329 picture 1

Kit No.329 picture 2

Kit No.329 picture 3

I hope for that they will like to you


Zappadores, Militia, Presidiales & Rancheros from Good Ground LLC

The So Far from God range of 10mm figures for the Mexican American War (1846-48) continues to expand. Next up are Zappadores, Militia, Presidiales and Rancheros.

So Far From God

Zappadores, Militia, Presidiales & Rancheros

Zappadores, Militia, Presidiales & Rancheros picture 1

Zappadores, Militia, Presidiales & Rancheros picture 2

This completes all the troop types present at Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma. They are on the way to my casting company and should be on the site and for sale within the next 20 days.

Good Ground LLC

Thunderhead Studios

Thunderhead Studios


Miniature painting, 3d printing, hobby fabrication and general tinkering.

This page is to share my exploits, enthusiasms and commissions.

Science Fiction, Adeptus Titanicus, CAVs, Dropzone Commander, Horizon Wars, Planetfall, Buildings

Thunderhead Studios Pictures

Thunderhead Studios Facebook


Christopher Wailes





10mm Terracotta Army from Warmonger Miniatures

I met the guys at Dancing Yak Miniatures earlier this year at Cold Wars and we talked about the possibility of a project together.

10mm Terracotta Army

10mm Terracotta Army picture 1

10mm Terracotta Army picture 2

These are some early WiP shots for it: a 10mm Terracotta army. They're going to be my alternate take on undead, instead of skeletons the souls of these warriors are bound to terracotta statues by their masters.

These are the spearmen, I'd like to do crossbowmen, calvary, chariots, artillery and maybe some big monsters s well.

We're looking for feedback at this point, so thoughts?

Warmonger Miniatures

Friday, 17 May 2019

Making and Painting a Runway Control Vehicle from P.G. Models

All of the parts

Well, not quite “all.”  With the wheels missing and the front of the body in place.  Even so, this is certainly one of the simpler models in my range.

Fixing the chassis to the body

I have made the chassis integral with the body floor for ease of construction.  It simply slides into place along a step inside the body, and then goes down into a central slot on the body front.

The main body parts together

Here I’m holding the chassis/body floor up against the body whilst the two-part epoxy resin sets.

Adding the cupola

I have made the observation cupola with solid windows to be consistent with the other models in my range, but this could be opened up or replaced with one made up from plastic card and clear acetate sheet if you wanted to have one with transparent windows.

Spraying on the primer

I usually use Halford’s grey primer, but for this vehicle I used the white one.  My “spray booth” is simply a piece of hardboard and a piece of cardboard vertically behind it.  When you spray, start just off the model to the left and have a steady spray across the model and onto the board to the right of it.  Do this gently and repeat until there is an even layer of primer all over the model.  Remember that several thin coats of paint are better than one thick one where the paint will run and clog up any detail.

Everything primed

Start by spraying on the underside.  This is an acrylic based primer, so it dries very quickly.  Even so, I still leave it for about 15 minutes before turning over the parts and spraying the upper surfaces, then leave for a couple of hours before any top coats of paint.

Painting in satin white

All of the upper surfaces were painted in satin white using the flat brush you can see to the right.  Take care to keep the paint off the windows as a matt surface is best for going over them later on with a pencil.

Cutting out the transfers

The completed model that I have shown on my website is painted overall light olive green, with yellow stripes.  For this one I fancied something a bit more colourful, with the red and white chequer board pattern, with a green cab, wheel hubs,  and chassis.  The big problem was how to do it.  I thought of painting it white and them masking off the white and spraying on the red, although there is often some paint creep around the edges of the masking tape.  Then I had an idea, what about using red transfers/decals from red cross markings.  The ones above came from a 1/87th scale Roco Minitanks set and were exactly the right size.  You could use any suitable source of red markings.  Something like a 1/35th scale ambulance marking would also do, if you’ve got one spare.

Applying the transfers to one side

For these transfers I used Humbrol DecalFix and was very pleased with the end result.  The DecalFix was brushed on the model where the transfer was to go.  The transfer was put into a shallow dish of water, to the top right, for just a few seconds.  It was then taken out of the dish and left on one of my fingers for a bit longer until the transfer started to loosen from the backing card.  It was then slid off my finger and on to the model, onto the wet DecalFix.  Once happy with its location, a light coat of DecalFix was put over it.  Leave for a few minutes to set, and then onto the next piece.

Adding the top bits

I didn’t have enough of the larger squares for the top parts, so made these up from some smaller red crosses, as you can see in this photo.

Finishing off with a coat of matt varnish

Once the transfers had fully set I then went over all of the body with a thin coat of matt varnish.  Staying with the Humbrol brand, I used their “Matt Cote” after giving it a good shake beforehand.  Matt varnish is one of those things that often causes problems.  Most times it seems to leave a slight sheen, and is very rarely truly matt.  However, with this Humbrol product I found that the finish was consistently matt.  And no, I’m not on any commission from Hornby (the owners of Humbrol).

Painting he green bits

Here’s a case of “do what I say, not what I do.”  I should of course have painted the green parts before applying the transfers. but I just about managed to keep the green paint off the red and white bits.

Painting the wheels

As usual, the wheels were painted matt black, with a touch of matt white added to it.  The wheels were left on their sprues for ease of handling.

Cleaning up the wheels

Once the paint had fully dried, the wheels were clipped off their sprues using a Xuron cutter.  They were then cleaned up using a No.10 scalpel.  I used to do this using a file, but find that, no mater how careful you are, there will always be some bits of filing that mess up the wheels.  Using a scalpel saves this from happening. Once done, the bare metal was painted using the same mix as before.

Fixing the wheels in place

The wheels were fixed in place as usual with a two-part epoxy resin, in this case the 5 minute version of Devcon.  It always seems to take longer than that to set, but it is a lot quicker than the other version of it,

Using a pencil for the widows

All windows on the cab, the body and the cupola were rubbed over with a pencil.  Keep the pencil at as flat an angle as you can, and avoid pressing too hard to save lifting any of the paint.  I did in a couple of places, but it doesn’t show too much.

The end result

And here’s the finished model, or nearly so.  After taking the photos I’ve noticed a few places where the white looks dirty, which would probably be true to reality, but I would rather have it looking clean.  Overall though I’m pleased with the end result

P.G. Models